Porto May 2023
Our Portugal trip got off to an exciting start with an almost-missed train connection. We thought we had enough time - 90 minutes - to get to the station only a mile away from the airport. As luck would have it, we almost didn’t make it.
We had flown to Lisbon, Portugal from Dublin, Ireland. At the airport, the plane parked away from the terminal and we had an unplanned bus ride to the terminal. Then once outside, the taxi queue was quite long, like a busy airport security line.
Finally, we caught a taxi to the Oriente Station and raced up to the platform of our departing train. I felt the doors close on me twice - once as I boarded and again as I entered our train car.
Estação de São Bento, 1916
I happened upon this most beautiful station by “accident”, making a left instead of a right. It happened to be a Monday morning around 8am, a few minutes before a train arrived at the station and everyone got off to head into work.
The beautiful Sao Bento, is not only one of Porto's key transportation stations but also a landmark of the city.
The station got its name after the Benedict monastery which stood exactly on the same spot.
Although the station's exterior looks impressive, the real treasure is the main hall, embellished with over 20,000 azulejo tiles that depict the eventful history of Portugal.
The building was constructed over a number of years, starting in 1904, based on plans by architect José Marques da Silva. The large panels of azulejo tile were designed and painted by Jorge Colaço; they were completed in 1916 and the station was then inaugurated.
Coliseu, Architect: Cassiano Branco, 1941
How wonderful to capture this streamline moderne theater/concert venue in both the golden hour and later at night with neon signage lit. By chance, we happened to be dining across the street from it.
Since we didn’t have dinner reservations, we were told that if we returned in an hour that a table would be found to seat us. Thus, the chance to catch the theater in different lighting.
Casa de Serralves, Architect: José Marques da Silva, 1944, Álvaro Siza, 2004 (restoration)
I had several items on my wishlist for Porto and could only choose one, Casa de Serralves, an Art Deco villa and museum located inside the park of Serralves. The casa was built by the second Count of Vizela, Carlis Alberto Cabral and designed by the architect José Marques da Silva. It is an example of Streamline Moderne architecture in Portugal. Unfortunately it was closed, I assume for renovations. Still it was great to view the striking pink villa from the outside and tour the gardens.
Museu de Serralves, Architect: Álvaro Siza Vieira, 1999
Ever since I bid on and won a napkin sketch by Álvaro Siza Vieira at an architecture school fundraiser in 2019, I had a notion to visit some of the architect’s projects. When we decided to visit Portugal, I looked up which we might be able to visit. In Porto, the easiest to visit would be the Museu de Serralves.
The description below is from Wikipedia:
The Serralves Museum opened in 1999 in order to give Porto a space dedicated to contemporary art.
As in most of Siza's buildings, the furniture and fittings were also designed by the architect, including lighting fixtures, handrails, doorknobs, and signage. Materials include hardwood floors and painted walls in gesso with marble skirting in the exhibition halls, and marble floors in the foyers and wet spaces. Exterior walls are covered with stone or stucco.